This is my first post here, so I wanted to write about something that is a concern for everyone: the condition of their skin and a very simple and safe method of improving it with retinoids.

Retinoids are A-vitamin like compounds which regulate the growth of the skin cells. I have used three different retinoids myself; Tretinoin, Isotretinoin and Adapalene. Let’s go through these one by one, but first;

General Instructions for Using Topical Retinoids Safely

Retinoids should only be used at night since they will make your skin very sensitive to the UV-rays. In this state, the sunlight can cause permanent damage to your skin. Remember to wash off any remaining retinoids from your face after you wake up and to then use a good sunscreen when you go out in the sun. Also wash your hands immediately after you apply the retinoid cream to your face at night. If it gets on any sensitive parts of your body, such as the genital area, it can cause a lot of irritation.

All of the topical retinoids cause subtle inflammation in the skin. This is normal as it is needed in order for the skin cells to rebuild. When first starting to use retinoids, you have to start gradually and work your way up. Start with the lowest concentration/percentage, and increase the strength gradually. If you only have one strength available, you can use moisturizer to dilute it. If your skin gets too irritated or visibly inflamed, stop using the retinoid for a while. One way to help your skin adapt is to use the retinoid cream every other or even every third day if necessary. The optimal strength of the retinoid cream is usually what is best tolerated. But be aware that prolonged visible inflammation will damage your skin instead of improving it.

Before going to sleep, wash your face with a cleanser that does not contain known irritants like strong surfactants (sodium laureth sulfate). Apply moisturizer, and let it absorb; then spread the retinoid cream evenly on your skin, and make sure that it doesn't build up in skin creases or the sides of the nose. It is recommended that you use sucralfate cream (for example, Avene Cicalfate Restorative Skin Cream) as a day cream. It will greatly help your skin to adapt and heal from retinoid use.

Tretinoin

Retinoic acid, Retin-A

This is the best choice for anti-aging purposes.

I have used this product for several years now but only in wintertime, when there are fewer hours of sunlight each day. I believe it is best if you do not use it every day all year round. It’s better to take a break of a few months now and then so that your skin can fully return to its natural state before starting to use it again.

How it works:

It is scientifically proven to eliminate fine lines and wrinkles by increasing collagen production in the skin.
It repairs photoaged skin that has been damaged by the sun.
You have to use it faithfully for at least two months to really see any results. The results are quite permanent.

Adapalene

Differin

This is best for enlarged pores and blackheads. It works for mild to moderate acne.

I use adapalene at times whenever I have a lot of blackhead formation. Changes in hormone levels and nutrition can greatly affect the amount of sebum skin produces. The main cause of blackhead formation is excess skin keratinization, which clogs the pores. Adapalene has a strong peeling effect that always helps to clear my skin and makes the pores shrink back to normal. You can use a gentle facial scrub once a week to get rid of the dead skin cells that form on the surface of your skin because of the peeling effect. When your skin is fully cleared, you should stop using adapalene for a while. Take a break of at least one month to let your skin fully recover. You can then repeat the treatment when necessary.

How it works:

It prevents blackhead formation by normalizing skin keratinization.
It chemically peels your skin and opens the pores.
It makes your skin texture more even.

Topical Isotretinoin

Accutane

As one of the strongest retinoids, oral isotretinoin is commonly prescribed for moderate to severe acne. It is the best retinoid for excess sebum excretion.

I cleared the quite severe acne I had in my late teens with the use of oral isotretinoin. I suffered from many systemic side effects caused by the oral administration. Eventually, after two treatment periods, my skin got better, but the side effects lasted quite some time. I personally cannot recommend oral use unless you have very severe cystic acne. Fortunately, there is a way to use this retinoid topically instead. You just have to break the capsule, squeeze the yellow liquid out, and mix it with a suitable amount of moisturizer. Be careful not to let your skin get too dry or too inflamed. With isotretinoin, you can’t avoid the visible inflammation of the skin. I think it’s okay as long as your skin doesn’t hurt or feel too tender. If your mixture feels too strong, just dilute it with a moisturizer. It is not recommended to use isotretinoin for more than six months at a time. To get any permanent results, I would say you need to use it at least three months at a time.

How it works:

It dramatically reduces sebum excretion during the use and can make your skin produce less sebum permanently.
It significantly reduces the blackhead formation by decreasing keratinisation.
It has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

Safety of Topical Isotretinoin Use

It’s very safe to use isotretinoin topically. You won’t suffer from any of the systemic side effects that you would with oral use. There had been a topical isotretinoin (Isotrex) on the market earlier, but it was not as popular among doctors as the oral form. Large oral doses have a stronger effect than direct topical administration, but it can also cause awful systemic side effects.

Mixing 20 mg of Isotretinoin with 3 g of basic moisturizer

Where to Get Retinoids

In most countries, retinoids are prescription medications. Tretinoin and adapalene are very safe to use, so your doctor will probably just write you a prescription if asked. Isotretinoin is normally prescribed for more severe cases of acne, and it has many adverse effects on your body when used orally, so it is not as easy to get a prescription for it.

The use of retinoids in the treatment of photoaging - Photoaging describes the consequences of chronic sun exposure, the key features of which -- wrinkles and mottled hyperpigmentation --are frequently and erroneously attributed to the aging process. Although a number of surgical procedures can improve the clinical appearance of photoaged skin, the only medical therapy with proved benefit derived from randomized clinical trial evidence is the use of topical retinoids, particularly tretinoin, isotretinoin, and tazarotene. Retinoids are capable not only of repairing photoaged skin at both the clinical and biochemical levels but their use may prevent photoaging. There is in addition emerging evidence that topical retinoids could be beneficial in the treatment of intrinsically aged skin (Source)